Philips 190B Fuse blown arcing buzzing faulty.

This monitor had blown the fuse in the mains lead following a sparking sound !

I stripped it down, fairly straightforward. Undo all the screws at the back, the stand screws then two longer self tappers that hold the speaker bezel and screen bezel on. Then its a case of unclipping / prizing the bezels off.

The LCD panel then unclips from the case allowing it to be tilted out. The screws holding the psu / video board cover can be removed.

I powered the board on with the covers off and was greeted with the following !

So it was fairly easy where to look next. !

A poor connection at the PCB on the live wire of the mains input was the cause. The solder hole has a heavy duty insert to prevent this kind of thing but the heat and stress must have just got worse, leading to the arcing when the track finally broke. I suspect the internal inrush limiters meant that I could repeatedly produce the arcing in the video without the fuse blowing again.


It was cleaned up and re soldered with a bridge on the track to beef everything up.

Re assembled and monitor then working fine !

HP Officejet 6500 E709a Series dead faulty PSU 0957 2271

A HP Officejet 6500 E709a printer had a dead / faulty PSU. Printer would not power on and no light on the power supply.

Opened up, nothing obvious to see. A check of all the discretes showed the diode circled was short. Out of circuit it still measured dead short.

A VSB3200 was the culprit, a 300v 2A Schotcky rectifier.

(picture shows new diode fitted and dead one out)

Tested working ok !

Nissan Navara Sat Nav bluetooth streaming (IO Play) Install

Ok, not a fix this one but when I helped a friend to do this there werent any pictures detailing the install on the web that I could see.

The factory sat nav system installed on this car (08 plate Nissan Navara) had a bluetooth function but it does not support music streaming. You would just assume that if an expensive car system has bluetooth, surely it must suport A2DP streaming / AVRCP control. I know that BMW's of the same era suffer the same problem. I suppose the standard just missed the development cycle of these systems.

So anyway, the nav system has no aux in and no cd changer simulator seems to be available (such as Dension, where you can swap the cd changer for a line in / mp3 player, I had one of these in an Alfa Romeo, worked ok). However there is still a way of avoiding a nasty FM transmitter !

Its called an IO Play, as shown here

http://www.my-io.com/en/Products/iO-Play/

Basically this unit receives the streamed music and squirts it in to the stereo system as a telephone call. I have seen some telemute kits that seemed to be a cheaper way of doing this but they all seemed to make a point they only use the front speakers ? The play outputs to all speakers.

It also takes the place of the bluetooth hands free system that is built in to the car. You can only pair your handset to one system, the IO Play comes with a mic for this.

To fit it in your Navara you will need a hands free sot lead.

This is the one we used, an InCarTec 10-556

This allows the IO Play to be installed as it comes with old fashioned head unit iso connectors on it.

The trim disassembles realy easy and only takes a few minutes, no horrible dsah out business. Just remove the cup holder first and work your way up to cd changer.

The sot connector is mounted on the back of the cd changer / brain (circled). The screw circled is a good point to mount the flying ground lead from the io play.

The next two pictures shows how the sot lead and io lead connect together.

The controller was mounted behind the gearstick, and the mic to the side. You can move the gaitor out of the way enough to pass the connectors through (be gentle though, the clips underneath are quite fragile).

There is loads of room behind the centre console for everything and the leads are nice and long. The IO boxes were placed under the cup holders.

All in. Sound quality from the music was excellent. Easy to use and the microphone placement seemed to work ok.

I would definitely recommend this system.

Philips Streamium MCi500H/05 Dead / Faulty PSU

This Philips Straemium MCi500H was dead, no power.


NOTE !: as the messages have got quite long on this post, there is a 'Load more....' at the bottom that isnt very clear, if you cannot see your post / my reply make sure to hit this button !

Update 2019:

I am still repairing these, I would say ebay is the best way to contact me if you require a repair.

USB Repair:

I can now repair USB input problems as well, if you can no longer read from USB stick I can repair this if you remove and send me the main board.

Update: Repair service

Although I did not set up the blog post with a view to offering a repair service, there has been a lot of interest from people to get these repaired. I have successfully repaired many units, people seem to really like these and not want to throw them away.

So if you would like me to repair your Streamium MCi500H or WAC7500 please feel free to get in touch.

Update: 2018

I have continued to have good success repairing these and from other models, I have done them for people all over Europe ! The same supply is used in the WAC7500, MCi8080, MCi800, Mci900. Had quite a few now with significant failures on the switching circuit, probably switching MOSFET failure which then takes out multiple components.

So please get in touch if you would like yours repaired.

I also have a listing on eBay as another way of getting in touch. Just search on 'streamium repair'

Sound problems:

The amplifier boards in these systems are quite prone to issues too and I have repaired many of these also. If you have no sound, sound from one side, crackling from the speakers then I can repair this as well.

It was disassembled and the power supply fuse (PCB solder mount, 4A, circled in pcb pic) had blown.

The PSU was a kingwall ps131 300 e0, good old 12nc 3141 078 50341

Further fault finding showed the following components dead.

FET on heatsink
PWM IC
diode
high power resistor
bridge rectifier

All circled in this pic

no sign of any bad capacitors.

All the discretes were tested on diode check. The PWM IC was identified faulty by measuring across its rails, it was dead short.

Components changed and all running well again.

I couldnt find much on this PSU and no way to buy a repalcement, so was good to fix the original.

Blackberry Curve 9300 LCD replacement.

This phone needed a new screen, it had the lines you can see in the picture running down it. If you applied pressure to the top of the screen all the lines would disappear, I suspect it is a loose driver in the LCD assembly.

All of the ebay adverts for screens advised to remove the faulty screen first to get the part number. There are several types and a visual check is the only way to be sure.

There is a good video on youtube.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6pccCCHlq94

Unclip the front panel and undo the two screws

Undo the two screws in the back, remove sim and micro sd

You have to remove the outer frame which is clipped along the sides and hooked over the top and then peel off the screen window which is stuck to the frame / screen.

So here was the screen out. Part number identified in oval,007/111 in this case. (The screen is upside shown upside down from when it is plugged in) Two circles show screws to remove screen.

A new front panel was also fitted, this is very simple and will make the phone look like new !

Replacement screen was fine.